Waaa?

Journal of Post Midterm Procrastination

Impact Factor = 0.0

Kappa Statistic of Fun = 1.0

Abstract

Purpose: To trek the Lemosho Route of Mount Kilimanjaro, Tanzania
Objectives: 1) To enjoy the trek, 2) To not lose any toenails, and 3) To reconnect with a dear, dear friend
Method: Two adventurous girlfriends with a great need to temporarily shed their work responsibilities in Africa put on their boots, strapped on the packs, and went for a 7 nights/ 8 day hike.
Conclusion: I believe I achieved objectives 1 and 3, but failed with objective 2 :)

Full-Text

Day 0 – Moshi Town

Octavian showing us the Lemosho Route

Alyssa and I met with our designated chief guide Octavian at the Mauly Tours office. In typical fashion, we went through in details the Lemosho Route, such as the expected change in daily elevation, what gear is essential, what to expect for food, etc. Octavian was patient with our many questions although we wished Nar, our guide from the past two treks in Nepal, was with us! Alyssa warned Octavian how OCD I was in knowing the details of the trek, haha J

Day 1 – Moshi (900m) to Big Tree (2780m)

Weight check by rangers at the trail head
(Much more organized than Nepal)

After a quick breakfast at the Zebra Hotel, Alyssa and I met the whole team of guides and porters (9 people in addition to ourselves) in Moshi Town and we made a 3 hour drive to the Londorossi Gate. On the way, we stocked up on special snacks like Eet-Sum-More (butter biscuits) and Cadbury chocolates for the summit day.

At Londorossi, we registered with the park ranger, weighed our luggage (tents, packs, food, etc.), and all the porters underwent a check for adequate clothing, shoes, and sleeping bags. I appreciated the Tanzanian national park system as it seemed more systematic than the Nepali one in ensuring that trekkers (including porters) were prepared for the mountain conditions of cold, snow, etc.

The road to the starting point of Lemosho Route was steep and deeply rutted. At several points, the porters had to get out and push the jeep up hill.

The walk up to our first camp Big Tree was quite easy -- Nepali flat (up and down but not climbing by hand) for the most parts and we enjoyed the flora and fauna of the rainforest.

I loved how huge the trees were and was fascinated by how some trees survived despite having gigantic holes in the middle of the trunk. We also spotted a group of Black and White Colobus monkeys – distinct little creatures that looked like they were wearing long white. Alyssa called them the phantom of the forest.

Huge tree

Black and White Colobus Monkeys
(I didn't take this photo but wanted you to appreciate
how amazing they looked with their white-feathered cloak!)

Photo from #1

Day 2 – Big Tree to Shira 1 (3500m)

We ascended from the humid, rainforest area of Big Tree to the heather zone. The heather zone is beautiful – loads of wild flowers and moss everywhere.

Alyssa in Heather Zone

Protea
(no photo shopping at all!)

My favourite flower was actually a dead Protea. Somehow, the dead flowers were perfectly preserved and had a metallic silver colour. Isn’t nature amazing?

Shira Range

I could feel the thinning air this day (you are expected to if you usually live at sea level and reach 3000m). After a day of mainly climbing uphill, I was happy to see that we would even descend a bit and walk on a plateau for a while to Shira 1 camp.

I took this photo before a descent and contemplating the walk tomorrow through the Shira Cathedral (the mountain ranges ahead).

Day 3 - Shira 1 through the Shira Cathedral (3960m) to Shira 2 (3900m)

I didn’t sleep well at Shira 1. It was too cold and I was up even before the sun came up. I got a good view of Mt. Kilimanjaro at sunrise today. It looked so overwhelmingly far away and huge that it made me nervous about the upcoming days. We started the hike from the Shira Plateau (flat), climbing steeply up the Shira Cathedral for acclimatization and then gradually ascented up to Shira 2 camp.

Sun rise with Mt. Kilimanjaro on right

On the way through the plateau, I noticed a couple of Four Strip Mouse, colourful lizards, and Ilandi droppings (antelopes that live up in this altitude). Colourful wildflowers that only bloomed in the sun dotted all over the moss covered rocks. Truly beautiful surroundings. The climb up Shira Cathedral was not easy and a bit scary because it was on a narrow mountain ridge. However, the views up high were rewarding. On one side, you could see as far into the end of the plateau that we came from and, on the other side you were shrouded by the cold cloud. At the top of the cathedral, I even managed to catch a bit of cell phone signal to text my sister J

Octavian and Alyssa on the Shira Cathedral

After scrambling down the Shira Cathedral, we hiked up to camp in Shira 2. This was probably my worst day in the whole trek. I was exhausted walking in the cold, drizzly fog and really felt like we would never reach the camp. Fortunately, our camp in Shira 2 rose above the fog and we enjoyed the warmth of the sun within our tent. Our clothes also dried out in the heat.

Day 4 – Shira 2 through Lava Tower (4600m) to Barranco Hut (3960m)

This part felt never-ending...

On the top of Lava Tower

The trek from Shira 2 to Barranco Hut was another really tough day. It was a key acclimatization day as we hiked up as high as 4600m and then descended to sleep at 3960m. The climb from Shira 2 was an unforgiving climb uphill. I felt dizzy, tingly and nauseous on the way through Lava Tower and did not eat lunch. I adopted the “slow walk”, which meant I put forward half a foot each time, and this kept me going all the way to the top.

We took a quick picture at Lava Tower and proceeded immediately to go down.

The downhill from Lava Tower sucked. It was steep, rocky, wet and slippery. You had to really concentrate in order not to fall. We continued down the ravine all the way to Barranco Hut. One neat thing was that on the way down, we saw some really cool plants that made the whole place feel surreal.

Once at Barranco Hut, the assistant guide Lawrence and I were lost in the fog and could not see our tent. It made me realize how careful I had to be when using the latrine at night. It was entirely possible to get lost in the camp and not find your way back. The evening was miserably cold again. Alyssa and I wore everything we had to sleep. However, it ended up being another sleepless night for me. The cold just makes you conscious the whole time. This was reminiscent of the time I lived on the Tibetan Plateau.

Trying to sleep

Day 5 – Barranco Hut over Barranco Wall (4200m) to Karanga (4035m)

I woke up to a beautiful morning. The sky was clear of fog and I could see the infamous “Breakfast Wall” (Barranco Wall) which we needed to climb (yes, climb by using our hands and feet). It was a sobering sight as I remembered how difficult yesterday was…

Photo Credit 2

Superwoman view of Alyssa

However, I think the acclimatization day yesterday really helped. I had a lot of energy and felt strong all the way. The climb over Barranco Wall ended up to be a lot of fun. I felt like I was doing something a little more “technical” than your typical walk in a trek. It was fun to figure out how to place your feet, squeeze through the rocks, or balance to climb over something sharp.

I had A LOT of respect for the porters carrying our tents. I cannot fathom how they balance and carry the heavy loads while climbing. Octavian admitted that this was the worst part of the trek for the porters.

Climbing down Barranco Wall, we met up with a large group of students from the Zurich International School. They were eager to chat as we share similar experiences growing up overseas and attending international schools. I was reminded of my first trek with HKIS classmates in Dzongri, Sikkim, India. Oh to be young again and to have an all expense trip paid for by your parents!

After reaching Karanga camp, we went up and then down another 300m for acclimatization purposes. I hoped this extra walk would help me prepare for base camp tomorrow.

Day 6 – Karanga to Barafu (4640m)

The walk to base camp was uneventful. I kept it slow and steady and rose to 4640m by early afternoon. The last bit up was very steep but I felt fairly strong. Barafu was crowded with tents for the new people preparing to ascent at midnight (like me) and for the old people coming down from the Summit.

I was diligent about drinking my 3L of water and eating as much as I could. The cook made peanut butter bread and pasta with South African corn beef (yum) – perfect energy food! I wanted to absorb as much energy and rest as I could for the long trek ahead. I tried to nap in the afternoon when it was comparatively warmer than the night. … I was nervous but resolute about the ascent. Joachim, our waiter/ porter, was super sweet. He gave me a pep talk and told me not to even think about trying my best (meaning, just do it) and don’t let myself turn around on the trail.

Day 7 – Summit Day from Barafu to Stella Point (5730m) to Uhuru Peak (5895m) and descending to Mweka (3080m)

Not a great pic,
but it gives you a feel of the darkness
and the rocky path on the way

At 11pm, Octavian and I began the slow climb up the Summit trail. It was impossible to see (we did not have full moon) so we relied on the head torch. The night was freezing – I was surprised that I stayed trekking in my down jacket, balaclava, and 4 layers of pants the whole time – I never warmed up enough to shed any layers!

The trail was so hard – the hardest thing I have ever done – there is nothing gradual or gentle about the slope. It felt like a 90 degree climb the whole time. You wind up and up rock trails and loose scree. At about 5000m, I felt a headache, but Octavian’s singing helped distract me. We rested about every 300-400m and I tried hard not to ask too many times on how much elevation we have climbed. The darkness made it impossible to tell how much gains you have made, except maybe you can judge by how little oxygen you had to breathe.

Things improved a bit when the sun came out. I enjoyed the changing colours of sunrise and was grateful for the relative warmth.

Sunrise on way to Summit

At about 100m from Stella Point (5730m), it was a pure uphill climb through the loose sand. It was challenging to make steady gain as you slip down a step every other step. I was utterly exhausted at this point.

Somehow, we made it to Stella Point, and Octavian and I shared a chocolate bar to celebrate. At this point, you can see the crater and the glaciers of Mount Kilimanjaro (the view that you would see if you flew over it). I was encouraged that we only had about 200-300m to go, but it was still challenging because the oxygen was thin and I needed to stop and breathe for 10 counts every 10 steps.

Octavian on Stella Point

Here are some pictures of the scene towards Uhuru Peak: crater and ash pit (centre of the mountain) and glaciers (sides of the mountains). At this point, we were above the cloud ring that typically circled the mountain top.

When we reached Uhuru Peak (5895m), we saw a couple gets engaged! How amazing and beautiful for them!

Summit Success!

Octavian and I didn’t stay long at the peak. We started descending after we took a photo. I was suddenly exhausted and could barely stand up straight. Octavian really helped me get off the mountain – at times, propping me up so I didn’t fall. We literally skied down the sandy scree and I was so glad I had my gaiters on to keep the sand out of my boots. We made it down to base camp in about 3 hrs.

After a quick lunch at Barafu, Octavian and I started descending 12km through another heather zone to the Mweka camp. The descent only took 4 more hours but it was painful – my toes, my knees!!! I was happy to see the whole team again when we reached Mweka and we celebrated our successful summit with two bottles of Tusker. Whoot!

Day 8 – Mweka to Moshi Town

On the last morning, Alyssa and I prepared for the Tipping Ceremony. I got quite emotional as the previous day was such a difficult time and I really felt like I could not have reached the Summit without Octavian’s help. The guides and porters performed a song which we appreciated. Afterwards, we descended down the muddy and slippery path of Mweka for another 3 hrs until we reached the jeep waiting for us.

So, all in all, I’m really glad I did this trek. It was much harder than the Annapurna and Langtang treks in Nepal, but I’m glad I pushed myself and managed to complete it. My body is too sore right now to think of what else to do… but I should probably take advantage of the gains from the high altitude by running a race (that is, if my toe nails don’t fall off in the next few days). It was definitely a great end to my time in Africa by doing something physical and completely different than working in the HIV care and treatment clinics J

Once we reached Moshi, we pigged out on all sorts of luxury.

Food!!! Showers!!! Massages!!! Emails!!!